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3.25rem;--topbar-offset: calc(var(--topbar-h) + env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px));--map-peek-h: min(32svh, 14.5rem);--weather-wash: transparent;--pad-x: 1.15rem;--ease-out: cubic-bezier(.22, 1, .36, 1)}[data-theme=day]{color-scheme:light;--ink: #f3f6f5;--fog: #1a2e34;--fog-dim: rgba(26, 46, 52, .62);--fog-body: rgba(26, 46, 52, .88);--ice: #1f6f64;--glacier: #2a8678;--amber: #b85f28;--amber-hot: #a85420;--amber-ink: #fff8f2;--line: rgba(26, 46, 52, .14);--title: #122428;--topbar-bg: #f3f6f5;--hero-sky: linear-gradient(165deg, #c5d8d2 0%, #dce8e4 45%, #f3f6f5 100%);--ridge-far: #9bb5ae;--ridge-mid: #7f9e96;--ridge-near: #5f827a;--glacier-fill: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55);--mist: linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 0%, rgba(243, 246, 245, .4) 50%, var(--ink) 100%);--map-bg: #e4ece9;--map-chrome: #e4ece9;--photo-bg: #d7e2de;--lightbox-bg: rgba(243, 246, 245, .96);--ctrl-bg: #fff;--ctrl-icon-filter: none;--attrib: rgba(26, 46, 52, .45);--badge-bg: var(--ice);--badge-fg: #f3f6f5;--swatch-past: 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var(--line)}.footer-inner{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:1.5rem;padding:2.75rem var(--pad-x) calc(2.5rem + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px) + var(--map-peek-h));max-width:46rem}.footer-mark{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;font-size:1.1rem;color:var(--title)}.footer-tagline{margin:.3rem 0 0;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--fog-dim)}.footer-meta p{margin:0 0 .5rem;font-size:.8rem;line-height:1.55;color:var(--fog-dim)}.footer-meta p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.footer-top{align-self:flex-start;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.03em;color:var(--amber-hot);text-decoration:none}.footer-top:hover{color:var(--title)}@media(min-width:640px){.footer-inner{flex-direction:row;align-items:flex-start;justify-content:space-between;gap:2rem;padding-inline:var(--pad-x);max-width:none}.footer-meta{max-width:24rem}}@media(min-width:960px){.footer-inner{padding-inline:var(--pad-x)}}.map-pane{position:fixed;inset:auto 0 0;z-index:40;height:calc(var(--map-peek-h) + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));display:grid;grid-template-rows:1fr auto;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px 14px 0 0;background:var(--map-bg);overflow:hidden;box-shadow:0 -1rem 2.5rem -.6rem #00000073;transform:translate3d(0,calc(100% + 1.5rem),0);transition:transform .38s var(--ease-out);pointer-events:none;--profile-h: 18px}body.map-peek .map-pane,body.map-expanded .map-pane{transform:none}body.map-peek .map-pane{pointer-events:none}[data-theme=day] .map-pane{box-shadow:0 -1rem 2.4rem -.7rem #12242829}.map-canvas{position:relative;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0}.map-loading{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:3;display:grid;place-items:center;gap:.65rem;background:var(--map-bg);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--fog-dim);text-align:center;padding:1rem}.map-loading:before{content:"";width:1.6rem;height:1.6rem;border-radius:50%;border:2px solid var(--line);border-top-color:var(--ice);animation:spin .85s linear infinite}@keyframes spin{to{transform:rotate(360deg)}}.map-legend{z-index:6;position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .55rem);display:none;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem .85rem;padding:.45rem .75rem .4rem;font-size:.65rem;color:var(--fog-dim);background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 82%,transparent);pointer-events:none}.trip-profile{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:4;height:var(--profile-h);cursor:pointer;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 88%,transparent);border-top:1px solid var(--line);pointer-events:auto}.trip-profile[hidden]{display:none}.trip-profile:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--ice);outline-offset:-2px}.trip-profile-svg{display:block;width:100%;height:100%}.profile-fill{fill:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ice) 38%,transparent)}.profile-line{fill:none;stroke:var(--ice);stroke-width:1.4;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke}.trip-profile-rule{position:absolute;top:0;bottom:0;left:var(--playhead, 0%);width:1px;background:var(--amber);pointer-events:none;transform:translate(-50%)}.trip-profile-head{position:absolute;left:var(--playhead, 0%);top:var(--playhead-y, 50%);width:8px;height:8px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--amber);border:2px solid var(--ink);transform:translate(-50%,-50%);pointer-events:none;box-shadow:0 0 0 3px color-mix(in srgb,var(--amber) 28%,transparent)}.trip-profile-tip{position:absolute;bottom:calc(100% + .3rem);z-index:7;padding:.2rem .45rem;border-radius:2px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 92%,transparent);border:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--fog);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.02em;white-space:nowrap;pointer-events:none}.trip-profile-tip[hidden]{display:none}.map-pane .maplibregl-ctrl-bottom-right,.map-pane .maplibregl-ctrl-bottom-left{bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .4rem)}.swatch{display:inline-block;width:.85rem;height:2px;margin-right:.3rem;vertical-align:middle;background:var(--swatch-past)}.swatch.active{background:var(--swatch-active)}.swatch.bus{background:repeating-linear-gradient(90deg,var(--swatch-active) 0 5px,transparent 5px 8px)}.swatch.ferry{background:repeating-linear-gradient(90deg,var(--swatch-ferry) 0 4px,transparent 4px 7px)}.rider-marker{width:12px;height:12px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--amber);border:2px solid var(--ink)}.map-photo-marker{width:2.35rem;height:2.35rem;padding:0;border:2px solid var(--ink);border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--photo-bg);box-shadow:0 1px 4px #00000059;cursor:pointer;line-height:0}.map-photo-marker img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.map-photo-marker:hover{outline:2px solid var(--amber);outline-offset:1px}[data-theme=day] .map-photo-marker{border-color:#fff}.maplibregl-ctrl-attrib{background:transparent!important;color:var(--attrib)!important;font-size:9px!important}.maplibregl-ctrl-group{background:var(--ctrl-bg)!important;border:1px solid var(--line)!important;box-shadow:none!important;margin:0 .5rem .5rem 0!important}.maplibregl-ctrl-group button{background-color:transparent!important;width:32px!important;height:32px!important}.maplibregl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top-color:var(--line)!important}.maplibregl-ctrl button.maplibregl-ctrl-zoom-in .maplibregl-ctrl-icon,.maplibregl-ctrl button.maplibregl-ctrl-zoom-out .maplibregl-ctrl-icon,.maplibregl-ctrl button.maplibregl-ctrl-compass .maplibregl-ctrl-icon{filter:var(--ctrl-icon-filter)}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .maplibregl-ctrl-top-right,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-legend,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .insights-deck,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .follow-chip,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .wind-toggle,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-moment,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-photo-marker{display:none!important}.map-toggle{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;right:0;z-index:6;width:100%;height:2.15rem;border:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 70%,transparent) 0%,transparent 100%);color:transparent;font-size:0;pointer-events:auto}.map-handle{position:absolute;top:.45rem;left:50%;width:2.6rem;height:4px;border-radius:99px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 42%,transparent);transform:translate(-50%);pointer-events:none}.map-toggle-open,.map-toggle-close{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0)}.map-collapse,.map-sash{display:none}.map-strip-day{position:absolute;left:.55rem;top:.55rem;z-index:5;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--badge-fg);background:var(--badge-bg);padding:.18rem .35rem;border-radius:2px;pointer-events:none}body.map-expanded .map-strip-day{display:none}body.map-expanded .map-pane{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:80;height:100vh;height:100dvh;border:0;border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;grid-template-rows:1fr auto;--profile-h: 52px;overflow:visible;transform:none;pointer-events:auto}body.map-expanded .map-toggle{inset:auto;top:max(.7rem,env(safe-area-inset-top));right:max(.7rem,env(safe-area-inset-right));left:auto;width:2.6rem;height:2.6rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 88%,transparent);color:var(--fog);font-size:0}body.map-expanded .map-handle{display:none}body.map-expanded .map-toggle:before{content:"×";font-size:1.35rem;line-height:1;color:var(--fog)}body.map-expanded .map-toggle-close{position:static;width:auto;height:auto;clip:auto;overflow:visible;font-size:0}body.map-open{overflow:hidden}.follow-chip,.wind-toggle{position:absolute;z-index:6;min-height:2.35rem;padding:.35rem .8rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 88%,transparent);color:var(--title);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.02em}.follow-chip{left:50%;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .7rem);transform:translate(-50%)}.wind-toggle{left:.7rem;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .7rem)}.wind-toggle[aria-pressed=true]{border-color:var(--amber);color:var(--amber)}.trip-spine{position:absolute;z-index:5;pointer-events:none}.spine-track,.spine-ticks,.spine-tick{pointer-events:auto}.trip-spine{left:3.4rem;right:.4rem;bottom:0;height:auto;min-height:2.5rem;display:grid;align-items:end}.spine-track{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .2rem);height:2px;background:var(--line);border-radius:1px;pointer-events:none}.spine-fill{width:calc(var(--spine-progress, 0) * 100%);height:100%;background:var(--amber);border-radius:inherit}.spine-ticks{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0 0 calc(var(--profile-h) + .4rem);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;height:auto;pointer-events:none}.spine-ticks li{display:flex;align-items:flex-end;pointer-events:auto}.spine-tick{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;min-width:1.1rem;min-height:2.4rem;justify-content:flex-end}.spine-dot{width:6px;height:6px;border-radius:50%;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 35%,transparent);border:1px solid var(--ink)}.spine-tick.is-active .spine-dot{background:var(--amber);transform:scale(1.25)}.spine-label{display:none;position:absolute;bottom:calc(100% + .25rem);left:50%;transform:translate(-50%);white-space:nowrap;padding:.2rem .4rem;border-radius:2px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 92%,transparent);border:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.65rem;color:var(--fog);z-index:6}.spine-title{display:none}.spine-tick:hover .spine-label,.spine-tick:focus-visible .spine-label,.spine-tick.is-active .spine-label{display:block}body.map-expanded .trip-spine{left:auto;right:.35rem;top:4.5rem;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .85rem);width:2.4rem;height:auto;align-items:stretch}body.map-expanded .spine-track{inset:0 auto 0 50%;width:2px;height:auto;transform:translate(-50%)}body.map-expanded .spine-fill{width:100%;height:calc(var(--spine-progress, 0) * 100%)}body.map-expanded .spine-ticks{flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;height:100%;padding:0}body.map-expanded .spine-ticks li{align-items:center}body.map-expanded .spine-label{left:auto;right:calc(100% + .35rem);bottom:50%;transform:translateY(50%)}body.map-expanded .spine-title{display:inline;margin-left:.35rem;color:var(--fog-dim)}.night-beat{position:relative;margin:1.75rem 0 .5rem;padding:1.35rem .25rem .5rem;text-align:center;color:var(--fog-dim)}.night-rule{display:block;width:3.5rem;height:1px;margin:0 auto .85rem;background:var(--line)}.night-kicker{margin:0;font-size:.65rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ice)}.night-place{margin:.25rem 0 0;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:500;color:var(--title)}.night-km{margin:.2rem 0 0;font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.04em}.night-beat--dark,.night-beat--stars{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;padding-left:.85rem;padding-right:.85rem;padding-bottom:.9rem}.night-beat--dark{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--photo-bg) 82%,var(--ridge-near))}.night-beat--stars{background:radial-gradient(1px 1px at 12% 30%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 55%,transparent) 50%,transparent 51%),radial-gradient(1px 1px at 78% 22%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 40%,transparent) 50%,transparent 51%),radial-gradient(1.2px 1.2px at 62% 68%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--ice) 50%,transparent) 50%,transparent 51%),radial-gradient(1px 1px at 30% 72%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 35%,transparent) 50%,transparent 51%),color-mix(in srgb,var(--photo-bg) 88%,var(--ink))}.map-moment{width:14px;height:14px;padding:0;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:50%;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 55%,transparent);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 12%,transparent);cursor:help}.map-moment.is-active{background:var(--amber);box-shadow:0 0 0 4px color-mix(in srgb,var(--amber) 25%,transparent)}.map-moment-tip{display:none;position:absolute;left:50%;bottom:calc(100% + 8px);transform:translate(-50%);width:max-content;max-width:14rem;padding:.4rem .5rem;border-radius:3px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 94%,transparent);border:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--fog);font-size:.72rem;line-height:1.35;white-space:normal;z-index:8}.map-moment:hover .map-moment-tip,.map-moment:focus-visible .map-moment-tip{display:block}.map-moment--rooster{border-radius:2px 2px 50% 50%}.map-moment--guanaco{width:16px;height:10px;border-radius:6px}.map-moment--mouse{width:10px;height:10px}[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:before,[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:2;pointer-events:none;background-repeat:no-repeat}[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:before{background:radial-gradient(90% 55% at 20% 0%,color-mix(in srgb,#d2c4a8 16%,transparent),transparent 68%),radial-gradient(70% 40% at 78% 8%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 10%,transparent),transparent 70%);filter:blur(36px);opacity:.42;mix-blend-mode:soft-light;-webkit-mask-image:linear-gradient(180deg,#000 0%,#000 28%,transparent 62%);mask-image:linear-gradient(180deg,#000 0%,#000 28%,transparent 62%);animation:wind-sheet 32s ease-in-out infinite alternate}[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:after{background:radial-gradient(55% 12% at 15% 22%,color-mix(in srgb,#e6d8c0 20%,transparent),transparent 74%),radial-gradient(48% 10% at 62% 16%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 14%,transparent),transparent 72%),radial-gradient(40% 8% at 88% 28%,color-mix(in srgb,#cbbba0 16%,transparent),transparent 70%);filter:blur(22px);opacity:.38;mix-blend-mode:soft-light;-webkit-mask-image:linear-gradient(180deg,#000 0%,#000 36%,transparent 70%);mask-image:linear-gradient(180deg,#000 0%,#000 36%,transparent 70%);animation:wind-wisps 18s ease-in-out infinite alternate}[data-theme=day][data-weather=wind] .map-pane:before,[data-theme=day][data-weather=wind] .map-pane:after{opacity:.28}@keyframes wind-sheet{0%{transform:translate3d(-7%,1.5%,0)}to{transform:translate3d(8%,-1%,0)}}@keyframes wind-wisps{0%{transform:translate3d(-11%,.5%,0)}to{transform:translate3d(12%,-2%,0)}}@media(max-width:959.98px){[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:not(.is-expanded):before,[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:not(.is-expanded):after{content:none;animation:none}}@media(min-width:640px){:root{--pad-x: 1.75rem}.topnav button{font-size:.72rem;padding:0 .65rem}.topbar-end{gap:.5rem}.hero-visual{height:54svh;max-height:36rem}.hero-cta{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap}.btn{width:auto}.chapter-stats{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(7rem,1fr))}.photo-thumbs-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(6rem,1fr));gap:.5rem}body.map-expanded .map-legend{display:flex}.insights-deck{left:.75rem;right:auto;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + .65rem);width:min(24rem,calc(100% - 1.5rem));max-height:none}.insights-card-body{-webkit-line-clamp:unset;display:block}.fact-item{grid-template-columns:4.5rem 1fr;padding:.65rem .7rem}}@media(min-width:960px){:root{--pad-x: clamp(1.75rem, 3.5vw, 3.25rem);--topbar-h: 3.5rem;--topbar-offset: calc(var(--topbar-h) + env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px));--read-w: 34rem;--rail-w: calc(var(--read-w) + var(--pad-x) * 2);--map-rail-w: 2.6rem;--map-col: min(40vw, 36rem);--map-peek-h: 0px}.topbar{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) auto minmax(0,1fr);align-items:center;gap:1rem}.brand{justify-self:start;font-size:1.15rem}.topnav{margin-left:0;justify-self:center;gap:.25rem;overflow-x:visible}.topnav button{font-size:.78rem;padding:0 .85rem;color:var(--fog-dim)}.topnav button:hover{color:var(--title)}.topbar-end{justify-self:end;gap:1rem}.topmeta{display:block}.hero{min-height:100vh;min-height:100dvh;justify-content:flex-end;place-content:end start;padding:clamp(5.5rem,14vh,8rem) clamp(2rem,6vw,5rem) clamp(3.25rem,9vh,5rem);background:var(--hero-sky)}.hero-visual{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:auto;min-height:0;max-height:none;margin-top:0}.hero-photo{object-position:62% 40%}[data-theme=night] .hero-photo{filter:brightness(.78) saturate(.94)}.hero-mist{background:linear-gradient(95deg,color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 58%,transparent) 0%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 22%,transparent) 32%,transparent 58%),linear-gradient(180deg,transparent 62%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 28%,transparent) 86%,var(--ink) 100%)}.hero-content{max-width:42rem;padding:0}.hero-kicker{margin-bottom:.85rem;font-size:.75rem}.hero-brand{font-size:clamp(4.25rem,9vw,7rem)}.hero-sub{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2.5vw,1.95rem)}.hero-lead{font-size:1.08rem;margin-top:1.4rem;max-width:30rem}.hero-cta{margin-top:1.85rem;gap:.75rem}.hero-cta .btn{flex:0 0 auto}.hero-stats{max-width:26rem;gap:.85rem 1.15rem;margin-top:1.65rem;padding:.9rem 1.05rem .85rem;border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--fog) 28%,transparent);border-radius:4px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 92%,transparent);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(12px) saturate(1.1);backdrop-filter:blur(12px) saturate(1.1)}.hero-stats dd{font-size:1.35rem}.story-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) var(--map-col);align-items:start}.story-rail{order:0;justify-self:stretch;max-width:none;width:100%;padding:1.5rem var(--pad-x) 6rem}.chapter-inner{width:100%;max-width:var(--read-w);margin-inline:auto}.chapter{min-height:72vh;padding:8vh 0 7vh;scroll-margin-top:calc(var(--topbar-offset) + 1rem);border-top-color:transparent}.chapter+.chapter{border-top-color:var(--line)}.chapter:first-child{padding-top:5vh}.chapter-meta{margin-bottom:1rem}.chapter-title{font-size:clamp(1.85rem,2.6vw,2.55rem);max-width:18ch}.chapter-place{font-size:.98rem;margin-top:.7rem}.chapter-stats{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:1.25rem;margin-top:1.6rem;padding:1.1rem 0}.chapter-stats dt{font-size:.68rem}.chapter-stats dd{font-size:1.2rem}.chapter-body{margin-top:1.75rem}.chapter-body p{font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.72;margin-bottom:1.25rem}.facts{margin-top:1.75rem;padding-top:1.25rem}.facts-head{margin-bottom:.35rem}.facts-title{font-size:1.15rem}.facts-list{gap:0}.fact-item{grid-template-columns:4.75rem 1fr;gap:.2rem 1rem;min-height:0;padding:.95rem 0 .95rem .15rem;border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:0;background:transparent}.fact-item:hover,.fact-item.is-active{border-color:var(--line);border-bottom-color:var(--line);background:transparent;box-shadow:inset 2px 0 0 var(--amber);padding-left:.85rem}.fact-cat{font-size:.68rem;padding-top:.25rem}.fact-name{font-size:1.02rem}.fact-blurb{font-size:.88rem;-webkit-line-clamp:2}.photo-thumbs{margin-top:1.75rem}.map-toggle,.map-strip-day,.map-handle{display:none!important}.map-pane{position:sticky;order:0;top:var(--topbar-offset);left:auto;right:auto;bottom:auto;height:calc(100vh - var(--topbar-offset));height:calc(100dvh - var(--topbar-offset));border:0;border-top:0;border-left:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;overflow:hidden;transform:none;pointer-events:auto;min-width:0;--profile-h: 64px}[data-theme=day] .map-pane{box-shadow:none}.map-sash{display:block;position:absolute;left:0;top:0;bottom:0;z-index:8;width:8px;padding:0;border:0;background:transparent;cursor:col-resize;touch-action:none}.map-sash:after{content:"";position:absolute;top:0;bottom:0;left:50%;width:2px;transform:translate(-50%);background:transparent;transition:background-color .15s ease,width .15s ease}.map-sash:hover:after,.map-sash:focus-visible:after,.map-sash.is-active:after,body.map-resizing .map-sash:after{width:3px;background:var(--ice)}.map-sash:focus-visible{outline:none}body.map-resizing{cursor:col-resize;-webkit-user-select:none;user-select:none}body.map-resizing .map-canvas{pointer-events:none}body.map-will-collapse .map-pane{opacity:.72}.map-collapse{position:absolute;left:0;top:50%;z-index:9;transform:translateY(-50%);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.4rem;width:1.4rem;height:4.5rem;padding:0;border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:0;border-radius:0 4px 4px 0;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 86%,transparent);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(8px);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);color:var(--fog-dim);cursor:pointer;transition:width .16s ease,color .16s ease}.map-collapse:hover,.map-collapse:focus-visible{width:1.7rem;color:var(--ice)}.map-collapse-chevron{width:.85rem;height:.85rem;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.map-collapse-label{display:none}body.map-collapsed .story-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) var(--map-rail-w)}body.map-collapsed{--read-w: 46rem}body.map-collapsed .chapter-inner,body.map-collapsed .night-beat{margin-inline:auto}.map-pane.is-collapsed>*:not(.map-collapse):not(.map-sash){visibility:hidden}.map-pane.is-collapsed:before,.map-pane.is-collapsed:after{display:none}.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-collapse{top:0;width:100%;height:100%;gap:.6rem;transform:none;border:0;border-radius:0;background:transparent;-webkit-backdrop-filter:none;backdrop-filter:none}.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-collapse:hover,.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-collapse:focus-visible{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ice) 8%,transparent)}.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-collapse-chevron{transform:rotate(180deg)}.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-collapse-label{display:block;writing-mode:vertical-rl;font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase}.map-pane.is-collapsed .map-sash{z-index:10;width:10px;margin-left:0}.trip-profile{left:0;right:0}.map-legend{left:.55rem;right:auto;width:max-content;max-width:calc(100% - 3.5rem);margin-left:0;padding:.32rem .7rem;font-size:.68rem;gap:.5rem .85rem;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 82%,transparent);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(8px);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .maplibregl-ctrl-top-right,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-legend,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .insights-deck,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .follow-chip,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .wind-toggle,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-moment{display:revert-layer}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .maplibregl-ctrl-top-right{display:block!important}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-legend{display:flex!important}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .insights-deck{display:grid!important}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .insights-deck[hidden]{display:none!important}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .follow-chip:not([hidden]),.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .wind-toggle:not([hidden]){display:inline-flex!important}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-moment,.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .map-photo-marker{display:block!important}.maplibregl-ctrl-top-right{top:.35rem;right:2.6rem}.trip-spine{left:auto;right:.45rem;top:3.4rem;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + 1.1rem);width:2.5rem;height:auto;align-items:stretch}.spine-track{inset:0 auto 0 50%;width:2px;height:auto;transform:translate(-50%)}.spine-fill{width:100%;height:calc(var(--spine-progress, 0) * 100%)}.spine-ticks{flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;height:100%;padding:0}.spine-ticks li{align-items:center}.spine-label{left:auto;right:calc(100% + .4rem);bottom:50%;transform:translateY(50%)}.spine-tick:hover .spine-title,.spine-tick:focus-visible .spine-title{display:inline;margin-left:.35rem}.follow-chip{left:50%;right:auto;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + 2.7rem);transform:translate(-50%)}.wind-toggle{top:.55rem;left:.7rem;right:auto;bottom:auto;margin-left:0}.insights-deck{left:.7rem;right:auto;bottom:calc(var(--profile-h) + 2.35rem);width:min(21rem,calc(100% - 2rem));max-width:none;margin-inline:0;gap:.5rem;padding:.85rem .95rem;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--map-chrome) 88%,transparent);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);backdrop-filter:blur(10px)}.insights-card-title{font-size:1.15rem}.insights-card-body{font-size:.86rem;line-height:1.45;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:5;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}.night-beat{margin-top:2.25rem;max-width:var(--read-w);margin-inline:auto}}@media(min-width:1200px){:root{--read-w: 37rem}.topnav{gap:.5rem}.topnav button{font-size:.8rem;padding:0 1rem}.chapter-title{max-width:20ch}}@media(min-width:1440px){:root{--read-w: 40rem}}@media(min-width:1920px){:root{--read-w: 44rem}}@media(max-width:959px){.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .trip-profile-tip{display:none}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .trip-profile-head{width:5px;height:5px;border-width:1px;box-shadow:none}.map-pane:not(.is-expanded) .trip-profile-rule{opacity:.85}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.hero-content,.hero-lead,.hero-cta,.hero-stats,.hero-photo,.photo-open img,.map-loading:before,.map-pane{animation:none;transition:none}.reveal-item{opacity:1;transform:none;transition:none}.photo-open:hover img,.photo-thumb:hover img,.chapter-cover-open:hover img{transform:none}[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:before,[data-weather=wind] .map-pane:after{animation:none}.profile-fill{transition:none}}@media(min-width:960px)and (prefers-reduced-transparency:reduce){.hero-stats{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 96%,transparent);-webkit-backdrop-filter:none;backdrop-filter:none}}